Jacket brings fashion revolution
Would you like to make a classic like the ‘Chanel’ jacket yourself? That is totally possible! Gabriëlle (Coco) Chanel brought a revolution in 1954, the moment she re-opened her couture house in Paris after the Second World War, when she launched her jacket suit -wide-cut against the prevailing fashion of tightly waisted waistlines with wide skirts- consisting of a straight jacket, inspired by men’s fashion, above a straight wrap skirt.
It is amazing how this jacket is still a symbol of good taste more than sixty years later, or, as Karl Lagerfeld put it: “The jeans, a white shirt and a Chanel jacket are never out of style.”
Ready-to-wear or Couture?
A jacket like ‘the classic black jacket’ is extremely laborious. Much of the manufacturing process is done by hand. There is an extreme eye for detail and a good fit. Although the jacket in the video below does not have a quilted lining, the process partly corresponds to the typical ‘Chanel’ jacket made of bouclé or tweed:
I don’t know how it works for you, but when I watch a movie like this I get completely excited! And I want to start making a jacket right away …!
The model is extremely ingenious. Because of the many parts of the jacket, it is possible to have the jacket fit perfectly to the body shapes. The original idea contains a number of special technical ‘tricks’ that invisibly reinforce the jacket and increase wearing comfort. These techniques are unique, but can be incorporated into all sorts of other items of clothing if the item requires it.
It is very inspiring for me to watch these kinds of videos from Chanel. Yet they do not show all the details that I am interested in. Last year, after years dreaming about this, I started my search for the details of a Chanel jacket with those unique characteristics that make the jacket feel casual, but with a polished look. A jacket that can be worn in almost any situation. A jacket that exudes unmistakable luxury and comfort. And I have never worked on a piece of clothing with such pleasure as this jacket. In the meantime I have expanded my knowledge of specific haute couture techniques through various courses. I would like to share this knowledge with you.
Masterclass Classic ‘Chanel’ Jacket
Renewed Tailored Concept
Discover the magic of a handmade couture jacket inspired by the CHANEL classic during this master class.
New luxury: craftsmanship and couture details
A highly specialised and super-specific master class for seasoned fashion professionals. You learn to make a classic Chanel jacket the haute couture-way. Through a combination of draping and pattern drawing you will form a perfect fitting pattern. Step-by-step you will learn special sewing techniques with which the jacket will be put together – mainly by hand – and you will realize your first self-made copy. All this in an inspiring environment.
The course offers guidance in making the toile, choosing the colour and model, and the realisation of the jacket itself.
For a first jacket, we start from a short model in a plain fabric. This puts the emphasis on the fit, technique and embellishment, which is more than enough of a challenge for a first jacket.
Actual costs CHANEL jacket versus homemade
When you enjoy sewing yourself, whether you do it for yourself or for others, you can make a jacket that is completely tailored to your own or your client’s wishes. Not only in terms of color and design, but even taking into account every personal detail. You can make it as special and unique as you want. Time after time! You go home with a good fitting pattern and model. If you have some knowledge of patterns, it will take little effort to make variations on this model.
The goal is that you have a perfectly fitting jacket of your own size at the end of the course, in a color that flatters you! This course offers:
There is the possibility to stay overnight above the studio (book a room in our B&B Het Atelier)
Who is this master class for?
For every Chanel lover who wants to give his or her sewing skills a new boost and who wants to learn to sew a classic Chanel jacket for themselves; for dressmakers, fashion designers, seamstresses and tailors who are looking for inspiration. In this course, you will discover new sewing techniques that you can apply to yourself or to clients in different ways.
This course requires a serious commitment (read: homework!) between classes to achieve the desired result. Count on a minimum of 10-15 hours per week next to the course day.
This is explicitly not a course for beginner sewers. We assume an extensive sewing experience and preferably some knowledge of pattern drawing and moulage. For professionals, the course is an enrichment in technique and manual finishes. Students invariably say that they have learned so much more than they expected beforehand.
(video is in Dutch)
Location: Dutch Couture Academy, Gasthuisstraat 16, 6981 CS in Doesburg
Time: 9.30-16 hours
Dates: 6, 13, 20 and 27 September, 4 and 11 October 2021
The course days are divided as follows:
Day 1: draping jacket, working out patterns, advice on colour and style, explanation of materials needed
Day 2: marking and cutting of fabric, explanation and practice of quilting
Day 3: explanation and processing of trim, explanation stitching bands, fitting laced jackets, possible adjustments, explanation making pockets
Day 4: closing lining along edges, sewing on pockets, explanation hook and eye closure, explanation sleeve slit
Day 5: hang in sleeve, waxing threads, sewing in sleeve
Day 6: sewing in a necklace, finishing touch, preparing for a photo shoot, tips for styling and follow-up, evaluation
A course with many extras for a special target group that appreciates quality.
This course includes:
- guidance in making a CHANEL jacket during 6 days of lessons worth €1597
- customised pattern worth €197
- focused colour and style advice worth €97,-
- extensive work descriptions in a folder worth €97,-
- access to an exclusive Facebook group where you can ask questions and stay in contact with the other course members voucher €197,-
- including coffee, tea and lunches on training days
- minimum of 4 and maximum of 8 participants
- participants are expected to spend approximately 10-15 hours working on the jacket between the teaching days
NOW for €1497,- (discount of €688,-). Registration after 1 September: €1597.
The first three registrations receive a free professional photo shoot (think about how this will be a great asset for your portfolio!)
Count me in! Click below:
Each course participant will receive extensive information on the purchase of fabrics and haberdashery (including addresses) during the first day of lessons.
Note concerning the pandemic: Should the corona measures be tightened, we will adapt and do a corona check at the arrival of a course day in the atelier with the QR code for events. If necessary, we split up the group or I guide on an individual basis, depending on the situation.
Response of a student after the course:
I thought for a long time before applying for the course “making a classic Chanel-inspired jacket”. I had been following Saskia for some time via Instagram and Facebook and had wanted a Chanel jacket for a long time. How cool is it to make this yourself.
I doubted if I could do it. Still, I entered the adventure. I have not regretted this. It was quite a project.
I knew in advance that making the jacket would be a lot of work. It was, but you can feel it when you put on the jacket. It looks like a jacket, but wears like a cardigan. This is because the lining is interwoven with the fabric; that’s where the work is done.
This is still not counting all other matters, such as the draping. There is also a lot of time in that, which makes the jacket look great. The moulage of the jacket, the tailoring of the pattern was a very special experience. Discovering how a jacket can be made on your body in this way and therefore looks very good is so cool.
The nicest thing about making the jacket was the processing of the lining to the outer fabric. In addition, seeing how the jacket takes shape is a fascinating process. Finding out which trim to use, how nice was that! I was and am not an experienced seamstress, but you should be. It requires a lot of patience and precision.
I have learned that you have to work very precisely, and you have to work until it is perfect. You will see the effort really reflects in the good result.
Saskia has given me confidence that I can do it, and I succeeded. She inspired me to get the best out of myself. After the first day of the course, I thought, “What have I started?” Partly due to all the help from Saskia, it has been a very successful process.
-Claire van Lente- September 2018-
The program of workshops, masterclasses and courses at Saskia ter Welle focuses on (prospective) professionals in the fashion industry who are looking for an opportunity to specialise in couture techniques. Enthusiastic amateurs are also very welcome! In the courses a balance is sought between technology and inspiration, between knowledge and skills and artistic expression. Discovering your own handwriting is seen as crucial in the distinctive craftsmanship of every student.